I’m documenting for myself, mostly, my latest experiment.

Here is my fun discovery with wovens. Let’s see if I can explain clearly. First, I slashed horizontally 1/4” above the waist mark but not all the way through the SA on the side seam, then overlapped the bottom over the top 1” to make a sway back adjustment. Then I corrected the CB seam by cutting straight down, effectively removing a wedge with the widest part 1” wide at the CB at the hem. Need that 1” back on the side seam, but not yet.

Next, I made 3/8” narrow shoulder adjustment to the back, but I didn’t cut a box and move the entire armscye over this time. Instead, I slashed vertically from top to bottom, then horizontally from the slash through the armscye about 2.5” from the side seam/bottom of armscye. I moved the shoulder in 3/8”. The bottom right piece pivots so the bottom hem gains the missing 1” and the armscye moves up 3/8”… effectively adding back there and completing the NSA.

I can’t believe this makes total sense to me and it looks good in pattern stage, however, I’m sure the sway back part is wrong and needs more thought. I can’t see how this made any difference except in center back length, ultimately, but maybe that is what it takes to correct the puddling problem at the lower back.

I need to cut a muslin next!


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