Carving out a deeper V

Kwik Sew 3115: I made this top last year and thought the v-neck was too high. Pulling it back out this year was a good thing as I've learned enough to deepen the v with some confidence.

I deepened the v-neck by holding up the pattern to my new dressform and determining the desired depth, then I calculated how much to add to the neckband by measuring the seamline and reducing that measurement by 2''.

I traced a medium and added 1" FBA to play around with it. I'm not sure I like such a deep dart in a knit top although it automatically looks like a nicer top. It might be fun to divide the dart between the side and v-neck (deepening it more!) or smoosh out the dart all together.

Overall, I really like this top!

I'm going to sew bunches of these tops for the gym and everyday wear. I love sleeveless tops, especially knit tops, and I'm glad to have another style to throw into my closet.

Another new TNT for me! This is also the first pattern which I've managed to work out the kinks on each of the three views. A triple TNTer!

Slinky top

Out of Print pattern includes hooded jacket, pullover top, halter top, pull-on pants and skull cap. I chose View B pullover top but have my eye on the jacket :)

I like the high armsyce in this top especially. No gaping in the front armhole! The dart is supposed to be sewn downward but I flipped it up. So, this is my first knit top that actually had a dart in the pattern already. Interesting!

No alterations. I traced the pattern and decided the bust apex hit in the right spot, everything looked good, so no FBA.

The hem is turned up 1.25'', topstitched 1'' from fold and topstitched again 1/4'' from first line of stitching. This seemed to be a nice idea so I double stitched around the neck and armholes too. Experimenting is fun!

The back shoulder seam is long. It comes up and over the shoulder and attaches to the front at the collar bone level (I think you can see it in the pic although the fabric is dark). I thought it made an interesting design element but worried the slinky might be too heavy and try pull it forward too much. Staytape did a good job of keeping that seam from stretching out (all looks good) but time will tell how well this top keeps its shape everywhere else.

Although this pattern is out of print, it is a keeper. If you come across it snap it up without delay.

Easy top to whip out for everyday casual wear. I will definitely make more of these tops for gym wear and just to wear around the house. This fabric plus the shoulder design really sets it apart from regular sleeveless tops.

Button-front straight skirt

Skirt A has front button closure, topstitched waistband and carriers. Pattern suggests Cotton Blends, Poplin, Gabardine, Lightweight Linen, Damask, Denim.


I like the styling of the button-front straight skirts (pencil skirts?) I've seen around lately. The bonus is this skirt hem. It hits at the perfect spot so no need to take it up.

I only wish they would specify whether or not to use stretch fabric. I'm sure it is a matter of having more experience to make that call, but still, it would help me out. I cut a size 18 because my denim had no stretch and hoped for the best.

I followed EricaB's lead and tried my hand at jeans style top stitching (er, that would be I outright copied her... but I'm grateful for the inspiration as this pattern doesn't go into such details!) I doubled up on the fancy shiny thread and really like the outcome, including the buttonholes which look so sturdy and professionally sewn. I'm so proud that I did these buttonholes! (I have a teensy fear of this task... buttonholes are evil)

I also used slightly larger buttons. The pattern calls for 3/4" buttons but I couldn't find any I liked. So, I settled for 7/8" silver buttons with some kind of patina and respaced the buttonholes so the bottom button was high up the skirt.

I think I will try this again in a size 16 using stretch black sateen for a dressier look and to see if and how the sizing/fabric combo makes a difference. I think this is a versatile skirt style and have no trouble finding tops to wear with it. A new TNT for me!

Halter kick

Wrap front top is gathered at left side. Three views: A is a halter, B is short sleeve top, C is below elbow length sleeve top. Pattern recommends cotton knits, matte jersey and interlock.

I have a thing for halters right now. I love the shaping of this top and feel comfortable although the low-cut is unusual for me. It is perfect for a beach party!

Fabric used: Interlock with 70 denier lining. My next version of this top will be 11oz rayon which will feel dressier. The interlock was too thick to use for both the bodice and lining due to the gathers. It wasn't too snug through the middle, but felt thicker than I imagined it should. I ripped it apart and cut the lining from the denier and had a second go.

I basted and ripped this apart so many times before I got it right! In the end I cut the lining in half and left the bottom of the bodice unlined. I also lined the back and encased the elastic so it looks nice.

I made 1" FBA on size 14 and that turned out well. I have no idea if FBAs are done on knits normally but it was fun figuring it out and following it through to a great fit.

This pattern is a keeper and saved me the trouble of figuring out how to convert a pattern for wovens! I think it would work up in slinky, buttermilk, onionskin or jersey just fine but I would definitely use a lighter weight lining on slinky and perhaps buttermilk. Onionskin would be interesting but I will probably go with rayon/lycra jersey next time around!

2007 SWAP storyboard

The PR SWAP is almost underway! It shall consist of 11 pieces and must be completed by the end of July.

Here is my storyboard. The pieces shown represent an effort to stop reading about sewing and actually do it! This is my goal.

Patterns are by Kwik Sew, Neue Mode, McCall's, Simplicity, Vogue and HotPatterns. I abbreviated the pattern company name for brevity, then added the pattern number and view to the end.

Fabrics are stashed linen, pique, cotton shirting, corded twill, rayon gauze, rayon lycra, knit lace and a bit of insertion lace. I need to buy more white linen :)

Overall, I think it is a good balance of easy and challenging, knits and wovens. I substituted one dress for a top and one dress for a bottom because I really don't wear dresses that much but had to have that Armani stripe and it sings shirtdress! Please click the graphic to view storyboard full screen.