Journey to Couture

Wednesday, July 11, 2007

Halter kick


Wrap front top is gathered at left side. Three views: A is a halter, B is short sleeve top, C is below elbow length sleeve top. Pattern recommends cotton knits, matte jersey and interlock.

I have a thing for halters right now. I love the shaping of this top and feel comfortable although the low-cut is unusual for me. It is perfect for a beach party!

Fabric used: Interlock with 70 denier lining. My next version of this top will be 11oz rayon which will feel dressier. The interlock was too thick to use for both the bodice and lining due to the gathers. It wasn't too snug through the middle, but felt thicker than I imagined it should. I ripped it apart and cut the lining from the denier and had a second go.

I basted and ripped this apart so many times before I got it right! In the end I cut the lining in half and left the bottom of the bodice unlined. I also lined the back and encased the elastic so it looks nice.

I made 1" FBA on size 14 and that turned out well. I have no idea if FBAs are done on knits normally but it was fun figuring it out and following it through to a great fit.

This pattern is a keeper and saved me the trouble of figuring out how to convert a pattern for wovens! I think it would work up in slinky, buttermilk, onionskin or jersey just fine but I would definitely use a lighter weight lining on slinky and perhaps buttermilk. Onionskin would be interesting but I will probably go with rayon/lycra jersey next time around!

Labels: ,

Monday, July 09, 2007

Elastic casing idea


Working through Vogue 8390 and making changes as I go. The pattern calls for two right front pieces and two left front pieces, sew each right sides together, turn, topstitch 1/4 inch from edge. This is exactly what I should have done on my bat wing top!

The back is one piece only.

I basted the entire top together and tried it on and felt thick through the middle. This fabric is interlock so too thick for doubling up... I decided to cut a lining out of 70 denier poly which is lighter and so soft. I might add I sacrificed a future planned project to do this. Ah, well.

Still, it felt too thick through the waist. I picked out the basting and halved the lining so just the upper bodice remained... basted it all again and felt much thinner through the waist. Maybe I'm not used to gathers, but I definitely don't need more fluff through the middle.

Next problem. The back seemed too thin as one layer and just not right. Back to the cutting table to cut another back piece out of the 70 denier. As I was cutting it occurred to me that I could sandwich the elastic between the fashion fabric and lining, thereby creating the casing for the elastic without turning down the upper edge as the pattern describes.

I stitched right sides together 1/2 inch S/A, pressed, turned, pressed, topstitched 1/4 from the edge, slipped elastic inbetween and topstitched from the right side as close to the elastic as I dared to go. I am so happy it worked!

I'm looking at it and wondering if I should insert elastic on the front bodice pieces or not. Any opinions before I seam up the sides? It should be okay but maybe someone has advice before I get brave and finish it tomorrow :)

Labels:

Thursday, July 05, 2007

Wrap front knit halter


Vogue 8390 moved to the top of the todo list today. I plan to lay out view A to see how the gathering works. Hopefully it will be easy to pull together.

Next, I plan to redraft Vogue 8151 with a deep scoop neckline and make it into a tank style... then I want to slash and spread the body to ruche both sides completely up and down the length of the side seams.

This would make the 4th version of V8151 I've sewn. It is a TNT and I should start looking through my pattern list for more. My SWAP is a total disaster! I only have three items completed and I need to throw my storyboard out the window and start over.

Line drawing, View A:

Labels:


 
Site Meter