Yummy pajamas

Kwik Sew 3595, View A, Misses' pajamas. View A pull-over top has contrast band at bottom edge, and capri style pants have contrast bands at bottom edges of legs. View B has shorts, and top has shaped hemline with ruffle and button closure on back. Suggested fabrics such as: cotton, cotton types, broadcloth, lawn, batiste, silk, silk like fabrics.



The first time I saw this pattern I knew I wanted to have at least one silk set and one cotton set. I am always hot at night but like to wear pants instead of gowns.

I selected white silk charmeuse from Gorgeous Fabrics to go with stashed red silk charmeuse (also from Gorgeous Fabrics) as the pattern envelope looked pretty good as sewn. Then I changed my mind and used blue flannel backed satin because honestly I've never sewn charmeuse and I felt somewhat intimidated! The satin seemed easier and comfy and I'm hoping not too hot!

I cut the contrast bands from the white charmeuse (of which I only have 2 yards remaining but many ideas.)

I didn't have enough satin to cut the yoke twice so I used the white charmeuse on the inside yoke as well. I found the inside yoke a bit difficult to pull off with only 1/4'' to work with, but it came out nice looking after giving it a lot of attention.

I made a quick muslin of the yoke only and determined it to be cut too high for my taste. I lowered the front yoke round neckline by 1'' and the back yoke round neckline by 1.5''.

I also made a quick muslin of the pant and decided to remove 3.5'' from both the front and the back. The finished pant has a front rise of 10'' and back rise of 13.25'' which is just perfect for me.

The finished top does slide backward slightly so I should have also made a forward shoulder adjustment but that is my fault not the pattern.

I can't figure out where I went wrong but the contrast band on the top was about 1/2'' too long. You might double check that by walking the seams if you sew this pattern. The contrast band on the pants were fine.

Speaking of the pants. The instructions say to turn down the casing over the elastic, use a zipper foot to sew, then stitch in the ditch of the side, front and back seams to tack down the elastic. I didn't trust this so I quartered the elastic and tacked in the ditch before turning down the casing. I just wanted to note it here to remind myself to do this again because it worked well! I'm very pleased.

In all, this is a great pattern and I'll sew it again and again. It is interesting (read: time consuming!) to use 1/4'' seam allowances on this type of thing but it was a good introduction to silkies.

The perfect compromise between pajamas and a nightgown!

How would I do this?

Burda World of Fashion 08/2007 107 -Jersey Top. Per Burda: Cleverly combine ring-stripe and plain-coloured jersey. OK!!


I traced the pattern off this past January, along with 105, and it is waiting for me to do something... anything! I like the look of this top but I'm not crazy about horizontal stripes or long sleeves and that must be keeping me from going forward.

I don't want a good tracing to go to waste, so I put the linedrawing in Photoshop last night and started playing around. I think this would look nice using a vertical stripe and binding around the neck and armscyce.

I am wondering one thing. I can do this with binding no problem but what about something different?

I want the blue edging to stand away from the upper bodice instead of being bound to it. Maybe that would be called piping? Well, no, not piping exactly. Tipping? Binding? Edging? What am I looking for here???

Fish anyone?

Simplicity 4926, Really Cool Fish Costume. OOP. Couldn't get my hands on it, so I had to self-draft this fish.



My third grader came home early last week and asked if I could make a fish costume like that cool one on the sewing website. He remembered the dead fish costume Twistedangel made a few Halloweens ago. He had wanted one at the time but completely forgot about it until now. His teacher had him scheduled to do a presentation on the abyss and march in a parade representing his chosen biome in a few short days.


"Um, are you SURE you need to be a fish?" I asked.

"I must be an anglerfish. PLEEEAASE, Mom!" he begged.

I'm a softie for those big brown eyes, so an adventure into costumedom began.

No problem! I jumped on PR and plugged in the word "fish" and found the review. Of course, the cheapskate in me remembered to check the pattern sale thread. I determined I could pick up the pattern Thursday morning for $1.99, just enough time to complete this costume for Friday morning activities. This was going to be a piece of cake.

Right?

I didn't figure out this pattern is Out of Print until I couldn't find it at Hancock! This was starting to look like a crisis situation.

Time to get serious. I had a rough idea what an anglerfish looked like (who could forget those teeth LOL) and having read all the reviews I knew I needed 1/2'' foam at the thickest. I picked out a bunch of things at Joann when I happened upon the remnant rack. That was it. Everything was switched out for remnants and I saved over $20. It was great!


I ended up buying a headliner remnant instead of foam. Blue sparkley dance type spandex instead of cotton for the gills. Navy blue poly satin to make the lips for $1.

I bought enough blue suiting for the fish body plus a spring dress for me, enough blue cotton for the lining of both. It took a while to think it all through. It was a bit challenging. The dress will be my reward for straining my brain -- M5658, View C.

A quick measure of DS's head and I sketched the fish body on plastic, hoping for the best! I traced the pieces off my master drawing, added seam allowances, cut the fabric and started constructing the body. It went together fairly well save the darn curves. Let's just say I won't incorporate so many curves on a project in the future! It was an interesting endeavor, however, and a lot of clipping.

The inner foam substititute, headliner, turned out to be just perfect. I cut two without seam allowances and then cut two more a bit smaller, basted two together to create each side with a pocket of sorts, and stuffed the pockets with batting.


I put my son to work stuffing the fins. It really didn't work out too well as they flopped about and didn't turn out exactly as I envisioned. But, what are you going to do, right? No time to slow down and reengineer fins. Now I see that I should have read DaleC's review closer because she provides the answer to constructing perfect fins. Well done, Dale!

The teeth were skimped on because I was running out of steam. I do intend to go back and replace them with stuffed teeth eventually.

Frankly, it looks more like toothy-faced dolphin. The mouth part didn't work out exactly as planned but the next time I could definitely execute it better.

Everything came together smoothly albeit it took an entire evening. I sewed the lining, lips, body together and turned the ensemble to try it on. The very moment I pulled it over my head to check for fit, the power went out. OMG! 3am and the power went out - just like that! Darn lightening storm. I waited a few minutes, standing there in the dark, wearing a fish head, looking like a total goof. Lucky I was too tired to wait any longer as the power didn't come back on for 6 hours!!!


Poor anglerfish never did get eyes but my son didn't seem to notice. He had a blast in the parade and everyone wanted to try on the fish head!

Kimono style

Simplicity 4020 Kimono Top, View D. This pattern calls for stretch knits only. Fabrics recommended: Lightweight double knit, stretch velvet, two way stretch novelty knit fabrics, stretch lace.



I used stashed fabric purchased from EOS called Japanese Geisha print triple mesh. I had about 1 1/4'' yards and it was fun squeezing out this top plus a pair of panties.

I traced this off in straight size 18. The muslin went well but I should have worn it out once or twice to be sure.

Once I started cutting and assembling this fabric, I realized it would have been a nicer outcome had I done a FBA. It is okay as it is but a bit more room would have been better.

In addition, I should have added length to the hem. Definitely will add about 2'' next time.

I think this is an easy pattern. All three styles are flattering but this one is my favorite. I have view C of this pattern in mind for summer.

Kwik Sew 2908. Misses Panties designed for stretch knits only. Fabrics recommended: Lightweight cotton Lycra®, stretch lace, sheer Lycra®, nylon Lycra®. The pair shown is triple mesh.


This is the only undergarment pattern I've tried so far and it offers a good fit. I traced off the pattern and found the crotch piece a bit large as other reviewers had reported. Once that issue was altered, the first few pairs were sewn and tested with various lace and elastics.

Of course, I won't show you any of the test pairs because they are ugly. We're talking brown knit with turquoise trim and my sewing was wonky and scary to behold. Let's just say it took me quite a few pairs before I felt comfortable showing these to the world!

I'm in the habit of cutting out some new panties each time I cut a new top. Plus, I've found old t-shirts come in handy, so those get cut up and saved for later as well. One day, when I've accumulated seven or eight cut out pairs, I'll sew them up and start the process over again!

Sleeveless Wrap Top

BWOF 01/2008 116 -Wrap top. Tie-bands wrap twice around the waist. This pattern calls for two-way stretch jersey knits only.


I used a cut of .99 onionskin that I purchased from Fabric Mart a few seasons ago. It was meant to be a muslin throw away fabric but it is charming. It is perfect for this pattern.

While tracing, I lengthened the tie band extension pattern piece 7'' and experimented with multi-sizing. This top is 40 in the neck and shoulders, tapering to 44 at the bust and sides. No FBA!

I lined up the extension with the bodice piece to see if I would be able to cut in one piece. Thank goodness it was possible because I really wanted to avoid a piecing seam. The bodice plus extension took up the entire width of my cutting table.

I followed Sandra Betzina's advice in Power Sewing and stabilized the neckline edge with 1/4'' wide cut selvage, then turned down and top-stitched with a double stretch needle.

I turned a corner with the double needle for the first time and was quite proud of myself! It looked terrible on the inside, of course, so I picked it out and tried again. I love trying new things.




Then this top hung out on Cassidy for a week or so while I debated turning it into a sleeveless top. My "SWAP that isn't a SWAP but actually a wardrobe now" is comprised of short sleeve and sleeveless tops so why not this one as well? Long sleeves seemed out of place in this grouping. Darn. I had already cut the sleeves so the sleeves would be wasted. But then, I wasn't sure if I would ruin my cute top.

In the end, I tired of debating myself and decided the high armsyce was going to work fine and to just do it already. I stabilized the armsyce using selvage strips, turned down and top-stitched and it looked fine. I sure can over-analyse with the best of 'em!

SWAP version 3

I am sad to find out that BWOF doesn't qualify for the wardrobe portion of the Timmel SWAP. But that's OK... here is yet another revision!

It is actually easier on me to change out the pants, shorts and skirt for McCall's wardrobe 5397. There aren't any cute details like topstitching or pockets. I kinda feel like I'm cheating!

I did leave the BWOF jacket and wrap, of course. That jacket is just the cutest.

Thank you for all the help tonight!! I hadn't even made it over to the rule list yet and had my answer within a short time of posting here. That is amazing! :)

I heart BWOF

I am finally starting on my Spring SWAP. This is my first revision and I am delighted to share it with you.

I have changed the wardrobe pieces and made a few other pattern changes. Hopefully using three pieces from the same section in January 2008 BWOF, City Styles, will satisfy the Timmel SWAP wardrobe requirement. I am thinking I'll sew the dress as well.

Speaking of, I still haven't made a purchase from Julie and that means my storyboard might change again. I would rather use dark brown denim instead of dark wash for this SWAP on the HP trousers so maybe I'll find something at Timmel. I need some of their coral knit and hope it isn't sold out.

I *love* the January edition of BWOF! I'm working on the wrap as we speak and should post my review very soon.

Hope you have a great week!

BWOF -January 2008

I am so inspired by all of the reviews on PatternReview.com for various garments made from the Burda World of Fashion January 2008 issue. Take a peek at the gallery!

I found a copy on eBay and received it last week. I think I will change my SWAP to include the wrap knit top and possibly one pair of pants. Eventually.

I'm not so hot on the SWAP sewing right now. I've had too many things going on all at once. A dead animal (rat) in the wall... fixed that problem promptly at the beginning of the month but have now been trying to get the resultant and unexpected fly problem finalized.

Last August, little beetles decided they liked the flour in my kitchen but I killed them once I figured out where they were coming from. Somehow they came back this month to live in my raspberry tea but I now tracked 'em down and hoovered the kitchen this past weekend. Unfortunately, the little fliers that they are found my wool pants (previously mentioned Weekender chinos all cut out and abandonded but pulled out again to look over the zipper) and now I must darn some little holes. Thank goodness they don't like polyester as I had 6 yards of Gorgeous Fabric on the sewing table as well as they are a perfect match. Trying to decide what to make.

Needless to say I am thankful my entire stash is safely far away from all this activity. I *will* proceed to FREAK OUT if I find even one little flier anywhere near the beloved stash. Wish me luck I got them all... every last one of them!

Yes, done with griping. Back to where I started with this post.

I am inspired by Jan BWOF reviews, but tired from battling intruders. I might trace off the artist top to make myself feel better even though it doesn't work with my SWAP. It is so pretty!

I bought a Mozart CD of piano sonatas to sooth my frazzled nerves! I've been looking for this CD for YEARS and finally it turned up on eBay. Yay for me!!!

Mozart: The Complete Piano Sonatas Vol. 2 - Entremont

Undercollar pattern piece

Wow! I think this will help me solve the problem I'm having on the mohair coat collar. Undercollars Part One - Cut by The Secret Pocket

The major problem is the under collar pattern piece. The under collar is cut from the same pattern piece as the collar. Unfortunately, I ran out of mohair. Not knowing what to substitute I cut an under collar out of a piece of fleece.



This doesn't seem "right" but I've been unsure as to why. Turn of cloth? The mohair is very textural yet soft as is the fleece. This is a nice quality fleece from a designer bolt sale. Perhaps if I trim away a bit then underline the fleece with silk organza it will work.

Here is a pic of the mohair. The lining and fleece are both darker than the mohair and match colorwise. Slate gray. Do you think I can get away with the fleece or should I use something with a woven texture? Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Multisizing musings

I'm stuck on a number of issues on my projects. I'm having trouble with the mohair coat collar, zipper construction on the chinos (even though I've done it before... I'm just not figuring it out this time) and I looked at the dress but just don't know what to do. Plus I haven't found the reader card so I'll replace it soon. I'm somewhat discouraged so I'm taking a break.

I did run across an interesting topic on PR regarding tracing multisizes. For example, one PR member traces a 10 at the shoulders then grades to a 14 at the armhole notch instead of doing a FBA.

I think I went about tracing a few BWOF patterns incorrectly this month. I traced size 40 shoulders and graded to 44 at the sides. I'll go back and retrace to grade at the armhole notch instead.

This is probably the best way to approach another round of V8151 as well.

View A is too big in size E. I'll try tracing C in shoulders and back, E at armhole notch, then back to C at sides. Size E sleeves are perfect except they need 3/4'' removed from the sleeve cap.

View B is perfect in shoulders in size D, back is good in size D. I can't get the FBA right (it is too high) so maybe just moving it would work although I am tempted to remove the dart and forget about it all together. Oh yeah, the sleeves are snug in size D.