Journey to Couture

Multisizing musings

January 27, 2008
I’m stuck on a number of issues on my projects. I’m having trouble with the mohair coat collar, zipper construction on the chinos (even though I’ve done it before… I’m just not figuring it out this time) and I looked at the dress but just don’t know what to do. Plus I haven’t found the reader card so I’ll replace it soon. I’m somewhat discouraged so I’m taking a break.

I did run across an interesting topic on PR regarding tracing multisizes. For example, one PR member traces a 10 at the shoulders then grades to a 14 at the armhole notch instead of doing a FBA.

I think I went about tracing a few BWOF patterns incorrectly this month. I traced size 40 shoulders and graded to 44 at the sides. I’ll go back and retrace to grade at the armhole notch instead.

This is probably the best way to approach another round of V8151 as well.

View A is too big in size E. I’ll try tracing C in shoulders and back, E at armhole notch, then back to C at sides. Size E sleeves are perfect except they need 3/4” removed from the sleeve cap.

View B is perfect in shoulders in size D, back is good in size D. I can’t get the FBA right (it is too high) so maybe just moving it would work although I am tempted to remove the dart and forget about it all together. Oh yeah, the sleeves are snug in size D.


  • Nancy K says:

    The problem with grading to a larger size instead of using an fba is that if you have a narrow back this will be too big. Chances are if you need an fba, your back will definitely smaller.

  • Leah says:

    Nancy, thank you for pointing that out.

  • Marji says:

    Leora, that process may work for someone, but what you’re likely to end up with besides the wider back Nancy mentions is huge armscye’s. This will present itself as problems in sleeveless as gaping armholes and bras that show, and when wearing sleeves movement may be restricted as there isnt’ enough in the upper chest.
    There is more forgiveness with knits, but if you do this for wovens you might find yourself woefully sorry.
    The good thing about PR is that there is always someone there to present solutions to problems, the bad thing about PR is that none of that information is vetted, so some is going to be ok, some good, some excellent, and some, just plain off the wall.

  • Leah says:

    Marji, I have been experimenting with this (had to see it for myself LOL) and now understand what you meant. I haven’t tried a woven and won’t. It has been an interesting concept to dink around with and ponder. Thanks!

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